If you’ve ever walked through a fabrication shop, construction site, or even a marine repair yard, you’ve likely spotted a chain block hanging from an overhead beam, pulling a load straight up, neatly centered. For decades, these tools have been the go-to for lifting, pulling, and positioning heavy, regular-shaped items like steel beams, engine blocks, or concrete slabs. But last month, a regular customer of mine—an equipment manager at a custom metalworking shop—stopped by my warehouse with a problem: he needed to lift a 1,200-pound, irregularly shaped set of custom-built agricultural equipment frames, none of which had a flat, central lifting point. “Can I just hang this chain block from my crane hook and make this work?” he asked. It’s a question I hear all the time, and it’s one that’s only grown more common as shops and job sites increasingly handle non-standard, one-off loads that don’t fit the “ideal” lifting profile. Chain Blocks
The short answer? Yes, chain blocks can be used for lifting irregular-shaped objects—if you do it right. As someone who’s supplied chain blocks for 18 years (I started this business after working as a rigger on offshore rigs in the Gulf, so I know the difference between a tool that works and one that’s a hazard), I’ve seen both brilliant, safe applications and avoidable disasters when someone cuts corners on this. A lot of the confusion comes from how chain blocks are designed: they’re engineered for balanced, vertical loads, not the uneven, off-center pulls that irregular items often require. But with a few key adjustments and strict adherence to best practices, it’s entirely possible to use a standard chain block for these tricky lifts.
First, let’s clarify what an “irregular-shaped object” actually means in lifting terms. It’s any load that doesn’t have a single, flat, central point of gravity (CoG) or a pre-rated lifting point (like an eyebolt) designed for heavy lifting. Think things like custom machine frames, prefabricated staircases, large pipe assemblies, even bulky art installations or ship propeller components—items that don’t fit neatly into the standard 4x4x8 foot loads most chain blocks are specified for. The core challenge with these items is their CoG: if you rig a chain block directly to a single spot on one end of an irregular load, it will tilt, swing, and create side loads on the chain, hook, and lifting hardware that the chain block isn’t built to handle. That’s why so many people assume chain blocks can’t be used here—but that’s where proper rigging comes in.
Let’s break down the science a bit, because this isn’t just guesswork. Chain blocks operate on a simple mechanical advantage: a hand chain pulls a set of gears that lift the load chain, which attaches to the hook. The load rating stamped on the side of the chain block is for axial loads—meaning the force is perfectly aligned along the center line of the hook, with no side-to-side or twisting force. When you lift an irregular object from a single point, the load will rotate around that point, creating a horizontal component of force called a side load. For example, a 1,000-pound load lifted at a 30-degree angle creates almost 580 pounds of side force on the chain, which can bend the hook, stretch the chain links, or even break the gear mechanism. Most standard chain blocks aren’t tested for side loads above 10% of their rated capacity, so even a small tilt can push them past their safe limit.
So how do you fix that? The key is spreading the load across multiple lifting points and aligning those points with the object’s CoG. That’s not just for big industrial jobs—we’ve helped small garages and art installers pull this off too. Let’s go back to that customer I mentioned earlier: his agricultural frames were 16 feet long, L-shaped, with their CoG 7 feet from one end. If he tried to hook a single chain block to the middle, he’d lift one end 2 feet higher than the other, creating a 25-degree tilt and massive side loads. Instead, we walked him through a simple multi-point rig setup: he used two 2-ton chain blocks (both rated for his 1,200-pound total load, with a 1.5 safety factor) instead of one, each attached to a lifting point bolted to each end of the frame. Then, he adjusted the lift speed on each chain block slightly—pulling the hand chain a bit slower on the end farthest from the CoG—to keep the frame level as it lifted. That way, every inch of load was distributed evenly, no side force, and the chain blocks operated right at their designed axial load.
Wait, but what if you don’t have two chain blocks? I get it—some job sites only have one, especially for smaller, lighter irregular loads. For example, a small construction crew moving a set of pre-built steel trusses for a shed. In that case, you can still use a single chain block, but you need a load rigging accessory called a lifting beam, or even a simple spreader bar. A spreader bar is a straight, rigid bar with two hooks at each end, so you can attach the chain block’s hook to the center of the spreader bar, and use two smaller slings to connect the spreader bar to two points on the irregular load. This keeps the chain block’s pull perfectly vertical, even if the load itself is lopsided. We supply spreader bars in all sorts of sizes—from 2-foot ones for small 500-pound loads to 20-foot bars for 5-ton industrial items—and we always include a quick cheat sheet for calculating where to position the slings based on the object’s CoG.
That CoG calculation part is non-negotiable, by the way. I’ve seen too many riggers skip this step because they “can tell where the heavy part is by looking.” Don’t do that. For irregular objects, the CoG is rarely obvious. For example, a large industrial pump might look like it’s heavy in the middle, but actually, the motor on one end adds 300 extra pounds, so the CoG is 18 inches toward that end. If you rig your slings 2 feet from the end, you’ll have a lopsided lift no matter what. Most chain block users don’t realize this, but there are free online CoG calculators for irregular objects, and we can help walk you through how to calculate it even for really odd shapes—like a 10-foot long, curved metal duct for a ventilation system.
Now, let’s talk about the mistakes that people make that turn a safe, usable lift into a dangerous one. The biggest one is exceeding the chain block’s safety factor. Almost all standard chain blocks have a 5:1 safety factor, meaning they can lift 5 times their rated capacity before failing. That’s not a suggestion—it’s a legal requirement in most places for industrial lifting equipment. When you’re lifting irregular objects, people often round up the weight of the load “just to be safe,” but that extra 200 pounds can push you over the limit, especially when combined with the side loads from a bad rig. Another mistake is using unrated lifting hardware—like a random shackle or a piece of rope instead of a rated sling. I once had a customer try to lift a 1,500-pound irregular casting with a 1-ton chain block, and he used a old shackle he found in his toolbox that was only rated for 500 pounds. The shackle bent mid-lift, the load dropped 3 feet, and he almost got hurt. That’s not a chain block problem—that’s a user error, but it’s the kind of error we see all the time because people don’t connect the chain block’s use to the rest of their rig.
I also get asked a lot if special “irregular load” chain blocks are necessary. The short answer is no—for most small to medium applications, standard alloy steel chain blocks (the ones we supply, with Grade 80 chain links) work perfectly for irregular loads as long as you follow the rigging rules. There are heavy-duty chain blocks designed for side loads, which are used in shipyards or for lifting very irregular, bulky loads, but those are for high-capacity, frequent use. For most job sites, shops, or even residential projects (yes, chain blocks are used for moving heavy fireplaces or machinery in basements), a standard chain block paired with proper rigging is more than enough.
But let’s be clear: there are limits. If you’re lifting a load over 10 tons, or a load that’s so irregular it has no discernible flat surface to attach slings to, chain blocks might not be the best tool, and you should use a crane with a spreader beam instead. But for loads under 5 tons—almost all the stuff our customers deal with—chain blocks are a cost-effective, versatile option, even for irregular shapes. We recently supplied a 3-ton chain block and a set of custom slings to a theater company that needed to lift a 8-foot tall, curved steel set piece for a play. The set piece was hollow, so its CoG was off-center, but they used our spreader bar and adjusted the slings to align with the CoG, and it worked perfectly. They saved $2,000 by renting a chain block instead of hiring a crane for that one lift.
Another thing I’ve learned over the years: communication is key. A lot of customers come to me with an irregular load, and they don’t know the first thing about rigging. That’s why I never just sell them a chain block and send them on their way. I take the time to ask questions: what’s the weight of the load? What’s its shape? Are there any pre-existing lifting points, or do you need to drill new ones? How high do you need to lift it? Then, I make a recommendation—not just for a chain block, but for the right slings, spreader bar, and even a quick step-by-step rig plan. Last year, a customer who restores vintage farm equipment came to me with a 800-pound, irregularly shaped tractor frame he needed to lift out of his pickup. I walked him through how to find the CoG, use two small slings, and adjust the chain block to keep it level. He did it, no problem, and came back a week later to buy another chain block for his next project.
Let’s also cover some safety basics that apply even to regular loads, but are extra important with irregular ones. First, never stand under a load mid-lift. That’s a rule no one should break, but it’s easier to forget when you’re dealing with a tricky, tippy load. Second, test the lift a foot off the ground first. Stop, check if the load is level, check the rigging, make sure there’s no side tension on the chain, and only then lift it all the way. Third, inspect your chain block and chain before every use. Look for bent links, worn hooks, or frayed slings. We provide a free inspection checklist with every chain block we sell, and I always tell customers to go through it before every lift—especially irregular ones, because the stress is higher.
Now, if you’re still on the fence about whether a chain block will work for your irregular load, ask yourself a few questions: Can you safely attach two slings or a spreader bar to the load? Do you know the exact weight (not just an estimate) and CoG of the load? Is your chain block rated for at least 1.5 times the total load weight (that’s the minimum safety factor we recommend, even if the chain block’s rating is higher)? If you can answer yes to those, then a chain block is absolutely a viable option. If not, we can help you find a solution—whether that’s a larger chain block, a specialized spreader bar, or even a recommendation for a crane service if the load is too big.
I’ve been in this business long enough to know that a lot of people underestimate chain blocks. They think they’re only for lifting boring, symmetrical loads, but the best part about a good chain block is its versatility. We’ve seen them lift everything from custom kitchen islands to large engine parts to even a full-size sailboat mast at a small boatyard. The key isn’t the chain block itself—it’s how you use it. You don’t need a fancy, specialized tool; you just need to take the time to plan the rig, calculate the CoG, and make sure every part of your setup is rated for the load.
If you’re dealing with an irregular-shaped object and you’re not sure if a chain block will work, don’t guess. Reach out to our team—we’ve helped thousands of customers navigate tricky lifts like this, and we can give you personalized advice based on your load, your space, and your needs. We’ll make sure you have the right chain block, the right rigging, and a clear plan to lift your load safely and efficiently, no matter how lopsided or odd-shaped it is. No wasted tools, no risky shortcuts, just a solution that works for your specific job.
Polyester Webbing Slings References:
- Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). Rigging and Material Handling Standards.
- American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME). B30.20 Standard for Below-The-Hook Lifting Devices.
- Chain Association of America (CAA). Best Practices for Chain Block Application and Load Distribution.
- National Center for Occupational Health and Safety (NCOHS). Lifting and Rigging Safety Guidelines.
Chongqing Toho-Rongkee Electronic and Machinery Co., Ltd.
Chongqing Toho-Rongkee Electronic and Machinery Co., Ltd. is one of the leading manufacturers and suppliers in China, Toho-Rongkee now bring you the newest chain blocks made in China which low in price and high in quality. Offering you the wholesale service and the OEM service, we warmly welcome you to buy the cheap TOHO chain blocks with CE certification in stock from our factory. We will also offer you a discount and the free sample.
Address: 7th Building, Shangding Industrial Park, No.22 Honghu West Road, Yubei Distric,Chongqing, China.
E-mail: sales301@toholift.com
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